From goat herders to Starbucks runs: Coffee culture, controversy & caffeine

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The History of Coffee: From Ancient Ritual to Modern Staple

Every day, the nutty, roasted aroma of coffee being poured serves as a wake-up ritual or mid-day reprieve for people around the world. As a global commodity, coffee’s history might just be richer than a freshly brewed cup. Not only does it cross physical borders, from Africa to the Americas and beyond, but its story is also tied to trends in commerce, religion, and popular culture. Beginning in the Early Middle Ages in Yemen, this is the journey that coffee has taken to become the billion-dollar industry it is today.

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The legend of Kaldi

The earliest account of coffee being consumed comes from an Ethiopian legend. Kaldi was a goat herder who, allegedly, first discovered coffee beans. His goats, on a trip to the forest, munched on some fruits from the Coffea tree. That night, Kaldi noticed that his goats were full of energy and unable to sleep. 

Kaldi shared this discovery with the abbot of a nearby monastery, who struggled with staying awake for late-night prayers. When the abbot turned the cherries into a drink, he was able to stay alert during the long hours, marking the reported discovery of coffee’s stimulant properties.

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The Sufis of Yemen

According to more credible reports, the modern practice of drinking coffee as we know it today originated in the mid-1400s, in what is now Yemen. There, the seeds from the coffee cherry were cultivated, roasted, and brewed, just as they have been since ancient times. Much like the abbot in Ethiopia, Sufi Muslims in Arabia started using it to stay awake for religious activities. They found that it allowed them to stay more concentrated, and it was also used to experience “spiritual intoxication” while chanting. 

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Coffee goes global

In the next century, coffee had made its way to North Africa and the rest of the Middle East, thanks to smuggling. A German physician named Leonard Rauwolf tried coffee during his lengthy travels, describing it as, “A beverage as black as ink, useful against numerous illnesses, particularly those of the stomach.” With such a raving review, it comes as no surprise that by 1600, it had reached all the way to Europe, Indonesia, and the Americas — essentially, the rest of the world. 

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Coffee and Christians

Throughout its history, various religious groups have opposed the energizing drink. When it was first introduced in Venice, some Catholic Church officials called it the “Devil’s drink.” Pope Clement VIII tried the drink, however, and loved it so much that he gave it his blessing. Some allege that after a few sips, he said, “Why, this Satan’s drink is so delicious that it would be a pity to let the infidels have exclusive use of it.” Some also believe he only did this because coffee was morally better than drinking alcohol.

Catholics weren’t the only group skeptical about coffee. The Ethiopian Orthodox Church had banned the drink, due to its image as a “Muslim drink.” Their emperor in the late 1880s, Menelik II, was a coffee drinker himself, which led to the drink’s approval within the church.

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Coffeehouses

The first coffeehouse, or café, appeared in the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century. Just like today, there were more than one place to buy a coffee. They were described as lively places where people engaged in spirited conversations about politics, played board games, and listened to poets share stories. 

Shortly after coffee arrived in Europe, coffeehouses began to pop up there as well. Just as in the Ottoman Empire, they were meeting places for artists and writers, stocked with fresh newspapers and even fresher gossip. 

In Europe, coffee shops became the epicenter of the Enlightenment era. They became “penny universities” where people of any social class could come, engage in intellectual discussions and learn new scholarly information for the low price of one cup of coffee. These spots served as third places in the public sphere, and precursors to the famous Parisian “salons.”

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Brazil becomes an exporter of coffee

In 1727, the King of Portugal and a military officer coordinated to bring coffee seeds to Brazil. It wasn’t until Brazil gained its independence in 1822 that coffee growth took off. Large sections of forest near Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo were cleared for agriculture. As part of the transatlantic slave trade, the coffee plantations were worked mainly by African slaves. Despite the massive shift in labor, Brazil had a near monopoly on coffee exports until the 1920s, when other countries entered the market. To this day, it remains the biggest exporter of coffee. 

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A century of innovation

In the 1800s, precursors to two major coffee innovations were created: the French press and the espresso machine. In 1852, a metalsmith and a merchant from Paris collaborated to develop a rudimentary cafetière featuring a cheesecloth screen. However, the design didn’t create a seal around the filter, as modern French presses do, and was updated by another Frenchman in 1924. Ultimately, Swiss inventor Faliero Bondanini created the most popularized version in 1958.

In 1884, an Italian inventor named Angelo Moriondo created the precursor to the espresso machine—a steam-powered device that instantly made coffee. It brewed coffee in bulk, rather than in individual servings, like modern espresso machines. After improvements by other inventors, the patent was purchased, and the product was sold commercially. It was showcased in the Milan International Exposition, which highlighted technological advancements, in 1906. From there, it became a hit. 

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Coffee and World War II

During a time of physical and emotional turmoil, coffee held great significance for both soldiers and civilians during World War II. Every soldier received Nescafé coffee in their combat rations. For them, it was more than a drink. It was a treat that brought comfort and normalcy to life overseas. Coffee also helped boost energy and alertness on and off the battlefield, aiding nighttime battles and enhancing morale. The bitter drink was also used by medics on the field, who slowly administered coffee to soldiers to restore their strength after injury.

Back at home, civilians were feeling deprived. Rationing allowed people less than a cup each, forcing them to find coffee alternatives. This included brewed chicory and soybeans, or Postum, a caffeine-free drink made from roasted wheat bran. When the war ended, however, America’s love for true coffee was still in full force. Returning troops craved more of the drink upon their return home, leading to a peak in coffee consumption in the United States in 1946. 

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Coffee in the workplace

In 1952, the term “coffee break” was popularized through a Pan-American Coffee Bureau campaign. The ad advised workers to “Give yourself a Coffee-Break — and Get What Coffee Gives to You.” A behavioral psychologist at the Maxwell coffee brand named John B. Watson helped solidify coffee breaks into American culture.

Coffee breaks resulted from concerns about “industrial fatigue” in the workplace. Concerned about rising onsite accidents and sickness, consumer goods companies based in Buffalo, NY, incorporated it into the workday schedule. Today, coffee breaks sometimes actually consist of carts with beverages, including, yes, coffee, or catered refreshments. 

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Regulation of the global coffee industry

The global coffee industry became so significant that in 1963, the International Coffee Organization was created to regulate international trade. The group was formed in London following the International Coffee Agreement (ICA), which lasted five years. Since then, the ICA has been renegotiated multiple times, most recently in 2007. The agreement establishes a system of quotas that stabilizes the global coffee prices. According to their website, part of their mission is to promote the “sustainable expansion” of the sector. Their scope of work mentions working to “increase the resilience of local communities and coffee farmers… and enable them to benefit from coffee production.”

Currently, the organization is comprised of two sub-groups: 42 producing members and seven non-producing members. In the past decade, however, five countries have withdrawn from the agreement, including the US in 2018.

Beyond the ICA, the Fair Trade arrangement transformed the global coffee industry. Within the coffee industry, the movement ensures that workers in developing countries have a sustainable and equitable quality of life. The first Fairtrade label was created in 1988. Products with the Fairtrade label have to meet a variety of qualifications. For example, Fair Trade certified products cannot be made with forced or child labor, and workers must receive the minimum wage.

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Starbucks enters the picture

In 1971, the very first Starbucks opened up in Seattle, Washington. Initially, they only sold coffee beans and coffee-making equipment. In 1986, they began selling drinks. By the time it became a publicly traded company in 1992, it had made tens of millions of dollars in revenue. 

As Starbucks grew, so did its iconic coffee drinks. In 1994, they got the rights to sell the Frappuccino under the Starbucks name. In 2003, they introduced their famous Pumpkin Spice Latte after crafting it in their “Liquid Lab.” Not only did sales of the drink take off, but it led to a pumpkin spice craze, with candles and pumpkin spice ham joining in on the theme. In 2015, Cold Brew iced coffees appeared on the menu, with the nitrogen-infused Nitro Cold Brew joining the lineup the following year.

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Coffee and social media

When the COVID-19 lockdown came around, Starbucks lovers were left to their own devices. At-home coffee-making, combined with the rise of TikTok trends, led to the Korean dalgona coffee. The drink gained popularity on the social media app. The drink was easy to make. All it took was equal parts instant coffee, sugar, hot water, and a lot of time spent whipping it into a thick foam. 

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Modern coffee attitudes

Current trends in coffee look as delicious as ever. While tea-based drinks like chai and matcha are on the rise, coffee has had to upgrade to meet their level. Indulgent cold brews with flavored foams are replacing simple black coffees. Coffee lovers are still in search of the luxurious feel of premium coffee. Bold, unique flavors are taking over coffee shops. Starbucks launched its lavender lattes in 2024, capitalizing on the floral fragrances of spring. With the rise of Dubai’s chocolate scene, recipes for lattes combining chocolate with pistachio have emerged across the internet. Companies have incorporated superfoods into their instant coffee to cater to health-conscious consumers. For example, Quick Cafe sells a turmeric ginger option, and Ryze sells a blend with six different adaptogenic mushrooms. 

Beyond fun flavors, mobile ordering and ready-to-drink options in stores have satiated a growing appetite for speed and convenience. 

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Conclusion

What began with one shepherd has ultimately become a billion-dollar global industry that is well-loved by people across borders. While it has always been a welcome boost of energy, it has evolved from a religious ritual beverage to an everyday treat that brims with flavorful potential. While coffee trends will change with innovation, politics, and commerce, indeed, the drink won’t lose steam anytime soon. 

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